Guys how do you know if the shirt you are about to buy is any good?
There are 10 things to look out for that make a difference to the quality of the shirt you’re wearing. Most things you wouldn’t necessarily notice by looking at it on the hanger, but if you know what to look for you can spot a high quality shirt versus a cheap imitation a mile off. So, next time you’re about to buy a shirt, be a bit of a geek about it and check to see if it has some or all of the little details below.
1) Is it 2-fold poplin?
A good quality shirt should be made from 2-fold cotton yarns not single-ply. 2-fold cotton is created by twisting 2 yarns of cotton together for extra strength, body and longevity before the fabric is woven. In our opinion 2-fold cotton provides a better quality shirt, as the twisting of 2 yarns together means that it doesn’t fluff/pill as much. I t also creates a greater clarity in the check or stripe and better colour definition that doesn’t wash out as easily. 2-fold cotton actually stays looking better for longer and even improves with age, while continuing to feel more luxurious against your skin. So, be wary of shirt retailers who call their shirts “superfine cotton”, “top quality cotton” – they are basically saying this to disguise the fact that they’re not using 2-fold cotton.
2) Is the collar non-fused?
Non-fused collars are a sign of a higher quality shirt. Most shirts are made with fused collars which are faster and easier to make and generally cheaper too. A fused collar is one where the lining is stuck to the fabric with a membrane of glue and then heat sealed to stick the layers together. This creates a mass-produced looking collar with no life and can also lead to bubbling (delamination) on the collar top in some cases. Detergents used in washing your shirt can also break down the glue causing unsightly delamination which can never be fixed.
Non-fused collars take a lot more care and attention to make as they rely on the skill of the machinist to correctly handle the separate layers and judge just the right amount of tension when sewing to make the collar sit correctly when worn. Fabric performance needs to be controlled as well so that there is no excess fabric once the collar is washed. The four greatest advantages of non-fused collars are that they feel more comfortable to wear; they are soft and not scratchy; they are not as flat looking and have more life; and they are tailored better – the shirt looks like a bespoke shirt.
The way to check if the collar is fused is to try running your fingers along the fabric on the collar top until the stitching at the front edge, and if the fabric ripples then it is non-fused. If there is no movement in the fabric, then the collar is probably fused.
3) Do the stripes/checks match across the front and the back yoke?
A high quality shirt is fully pattern matched across the front. So where there is a stripe or a check in the fabric design, it will appear as one continuous piece of fabric. In order to achieve this, the shirt fronts have to be cut from 3 separate pieces, and each piece has to be cut to match. Cheaper shirts are cut from 2 pieces and if you look closely, you will find that the fabric design does not fully match. This method uses less fabric and takes less time to cut and make. Fabric pattern matching is important on the collar points and cuffs – a high quality shirt will match perfectly from side to side on the collar and cuffs will match. A good shirt will also have split yokes that have a seam in the centre-back: this will also be fully matched and mirrored (it makes your shirt look tailor-made). Visually it’s very important to have a shirt that matches all the way around as it shows the quality of your garment.
4) Does it have lock-stitched buttons?
There’s nothing more annoying than buying a new shirt and having the buttons fall off after a couple of wears! Lockstitching is the technique that stops that happening as it loops 2 threads together and knots them, rather than chain-stitching which is just 1 thread looped together, that can easily unravel. An easy way to tell is by looking at the reverse of the button and you will see 2 very short tails of thread not one.
N.B. A little extra nerdy fact for you – we use 156 stitches on every buttonhole to make sure they never fray.
5) Is it available in my exact size and fit?
There are different body fits, collar sizes and sleeve lengths and you should be able to get the right combination of all to buy a shirt that fits perfectly. We make sure you get properly measured to get the right collar size and sleeve length. We offer the widest range of sizes on the high street from 14½” to 20” collars with sleeves up to 38”. A good quality tailor should offer an alteration service to get the right sleeve length. If you sleeve is too short it will wear quicker at the elbows, so make sure it sits right.
6) How are the cuffs made?
Cuffs, like collars, should be non-fused to give them a better shape, softer feel and avoid the fabric bubbling over time, as we talked about with non-fused collars. An extra detail on double cuff shirts is that for the cuffs to sit correctly, they should be bucket or tulip shaped. This basically means that the outside edge of the cuff is cut slightly wider than the inside edge (the edge attached to the shirt) so when your cuff is turned back, it covers the underneath. If the cuff is cut square, the underneath will protrude and not look as smart. You will only really notice this detail when you are wearing the shirt.
7) Does it have a 3-pleat cuff?
Having 3 pleats on every shirt cuff is more labour intensive but it distributes the fullness of the sleeve material more evenly than just having 1 pleat and it ensures that the shirt sleeves sit right. It also makes the shirt easier to iron as the first pleat is always in the centre of the sleeve, so when you iron to that pleat you will get a smart crease exactly along the centre of the sleeve. We are very obsessive about making sure these 3 pleats are in exactly the same place on every shirt – a shirt won’t get through quality control if they’re not! Many other shirt makers would just put the pleats in at random and only use 1 or 2, but having 3 pleats is another little detail that makes the shirt look much better.
8) Does it have double stitched seams?
This basically means that the seams are sewn with two rows of stitching, rather than one, for extra strength at the sides and sleeve head. It also means the seams are flat which is more comfortable to wear next to the skin.
N.B. Another thing to look for is the number of stitches used on the seams. This is entering the realms of extreme shirt-"nerdiness" now but there is a correct amount of stitches to use on seams to make the fabric last longer. We use 15 stitches per inch of fabric which works across all weaves and materials and takes longer to sew but means that all of the seams are stronger. Cheaper shirts will use 10-12 stitches per inch, but more than 15 stitches doesn't mean a better shirt as too many small stitches can perforate and damage the fabric.
9) Are the labels laser-cut?
Laser-cut labels are cheaper to produce but they are scratchy on the skin. We've all worn shirts that irritate the back of your neck. Cheaper shirt makers weave the labels on broad looms and then cut them out with a laser which fuses the edges and makes them scratchy. We use woven-edge labels in all our formal shirts, which mean that our labels are woven on a narrow loom (the old fashioned way) to give them a smooth, comfortable edge.
10) Is the shirt longer at the back than the front?
This may sound obvious but some shirt companies don’t do this to save money as fabric is the most expensive part of shirt making. However, it is important that the back of the shirt is cut longer than the front so that the shirt doesn’t ride up and the shirt tails stay tucked into your suit trousers.
Other little things to consider when buying your shirt are:
- Check that it has removable collar bones already in the collar – these help the collar to keep its shape when it’s not being worn. Be wary of cheap metal bones as these can have sharp edges that damage the collar. (We sell stainless steel or sterling silver bones if you prefer metal, these are beautifully engineered with smooth edges).
When it comes to T. M. Lewin shirts please remember:
- Check you’re buying an exclusive – you can never buy a T.M.Lewin pattern in any other store.
- Check that it has around 1cm/ 3/8” space on the collar to accommodate a tie - many shirt makers don’t leave that tie space.
- From hand matching checks and stripes, to each sewing operation, requires skilled craftsmen to achieve our exacting standards – even our collars are still trimmed and turned by hand because it’s the only way to get a sharp point without any lumps.
- It’s the little details that make our shirts a cut about the rest… Now you know what to look for, you need never wear a poor quality shirt again!
Originally written by Wayne @ TML, re - blogged with permission from T. M. Lewin & sons Limited 2012
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